The ideal is to make the board diagram in some own software. There are several free alternatives available on the Internet for this. I have been using Eagle PCB Light Edition which is quite complete and I have also used Fritzing which is a bit simpler. There are even versions that run in their own browser such as 123D Circuits. After you make your diagram print it on paper. But keep in mind that you should print mirrored, as design software usually offers a top view of the board, and you will draw the bottom. It’s also good to print a version without mirroring the component design to guide you through the assembly. With the PCB assembly services this is important now.
Iron Perchloride Solution:
This is the solution you will use in the corrosion process. You can buy the finished solution or the perchloride in solid form and then dissolve it in water. But caution, leave the perchloride always well stored in a container that can be hermetically sealed and not metallic. And even more careful not to let the perchloride come into contact with your furniture or metal objects where it touches the damage is guaranteed.
One of the most daunting tasks when mounting your PCB is to drill through the pathways for component insertion. One of the best ways to do this in your home is with a manual punch that looks like a paper stapler. You can also use Dremel with a very thin drill and even a drill, but I think the hand punch is MUCH more practical (as well as cheaper).
You need a corrosion-resistant ink pen to draw your diagram on the board. There are pens that are sold especially for this purpose, but the good news is that permanent markers like Sharpie and overhead pens also work perfectly. In my case I use the Sharpies.
Board Ruler and Cutter:
These two pieces of equipment will be used to make your board the size you need for your project. The ruler is nothing more than a piece of metal that you can use to guide the cut on the board. In some cases the ruler has two pieces of metal and a thumbscrew so that it is fixed to the board. If yours does not have this, no problem, but you will need to hold the ruler firmly over the board the cutter is nothing more than a metal pin with a very sharp point. If you can’t get one, you can achieve the same effect with a large nail with a sharp point in trash or with Dreme.
In addition to these basic materials, it may be good to have some others at your hand such as:
Paper sandpaper: A very thin paper sandpaper can be very useful for finishing the board and even removing any unwanted irregularities. Sometimes after drilling you may have some copper filings in the pathways (holes) that should be removed to avoid difficulties in inserting and welding. Preferably for very fine sandpaper (with very small grains).
A very thin metal rod: It can be used to widen the holes when they are too small for the component terminals. We use one of those that come in the welding toolkit.
At electronics supply stores you can also buy a complete kit for printed circuit boards. There are several models of kit for making plates, but the most basic (like the one in the picture) is already sufficient for your first plate.